LFW Issa London AW10

I wrote this review for a competition on GraziaDaily. Sadly, my entry didn't win me a BlackBerry or a byline. But I was brought up with a waste not want not mentality so here it is for lucky old you to read.

Issa London

The clashing scenes of London fashion’s old and new guards were Daniella Issa Helayel’s inspiration for Issa London’s AW10 show. The Brazilian designer blended the pomp of Annabel’s and the King’s Road with the grimy cityscape view of rooftop parties at Shoreditch House to bring necessary grit to the glamour on show.

This collection perfectly suited the modern London fashionista who is inspired by objects she either loves or loathes to create an eclectic look. The rocked up re-appropriation of the uniform of the old guard was manifest in layers of clashing textures and shades. Twin collarless quilted jackets, armoured with embellished pockets and external shoulder pads, perfectly channelled the modern aesthetic. Jackets and capes in fur and wool echoed the boxy silhouettes of shift dresses layered over thin polo necks in contrasting colours. Evocation of screen-starlet glamour came from models dressed with scarlet lips, huge sunglasses and patterned headscarves protecting vast quiffs.

The theme of the show’s production was NY-Lon travelling via ‘United Friends of Issa” and transatlantic glamour shone through. A series of diaphanous maxi-dresses floated down the runway as if straight from a pool-party at an art deco Miami mansion. The silken glamour was again tempered; smudged and muted shades of lilac and grey, cloaking the models with the aura of a rain-soaked London sky.

Needle-thin heels, the occasional pair of full-length black latex gloves and waist belts that stopped short of cinching emphasised that this was a feminine collection but by no means girly.